Across 825 real stove and oven repairs in the SF Bay Area & Peninsula, "it won't turn on" is the second-most common reason people call us — 226 of those jobs were a stove or oven that wouldn't start or turn on. So if you've flipped the knob, waited, and nothing happens, you're in familiar territory, and it's almost always fixable.
How customers describe it: "Stove not turning on — checked circuit breaker and it was fine." — a Samsung owner "The oven and stove aren't working, and I think the pilot light went out recently which caused this." — a GE owner
Those two quotes cover the two big buckets we see: electric units that look dead even with a good breaker, and gas units where the ignition or safety system has cut power to the burners or oven. Below is what's usually behind it, what the fix looks like, and when it's genuinely a DIY job versus a call.
Common causes we actually see
On our 226 won't-turn-on stove and oven jobs, the culprit is usually one of these:
- Power getting to the unit but not through it. The breaker reads fine, but the stove still won't wake up. On electric ranges this is often a failed surface-burner infinite switch or control/relay — WB24T10022 is one of the parts we replace most on stove and oven jobs. A tripped or corroded outlet, a loose 240V connection, or a blown internal fuse can also look like a "dead" stove.
- A failed control board or clock/timer module. Many ovens won't power the bake or broil circuit if the electronic control has faulted — the cooktop may still work while the oven stays dark, or vice versa.
- Gas ignition or safety lockout. On a gas range, a bad spark module, a dirty flame sensor, or a pilot light that has gone out can leave the burners or oven completely unresponsive even though the unit "has power."
- A stuck or broken control knob/switch. We've fixed plenty where "the stove is not turning on and off properly — the switches need to be repaired or replaced" or "one of the dials will not turn on." A cracked or melted knob or a worn switch shaft is a common, inexpensive fix.
- Interlock or door/latch fault (ovens). A self-clean latch stuck mid-cycle or a failed door switch can lock the oven out of heating.
The usual fix
The diagnosis always starts the same way: confirm the unit is actually getting the right voltage at the outlet, then work inward — switch, control board, ignition system, safety devices. Most no-power repairs come down to replacing one switch, control board, igniter, or spark module and reseating the wiring. On gas units we also verify the gas supply and re-establish ignition safely.
The parts we stock most are exactly the ones that fail (WB24T10022, WB18X31213, WB17T10006, 316436001, 5303935066). Because we carry the common ones on the van, a lot of these get fixed in a single visit.
Honest DIY vs. call-a-pro
Reasonable to try yourself:
- Confirm the outlet has power (test another appliance) and that the plug is fully seated.
- Reset the breaker once — off, pause, on. If it trips again immediately, stop and call.
- On a gas range, check whether a pilot light is out and follow your owner's manual to relight it.
- Swap an obviously cracked or melted knob for the correct replacement.
Call a pro when:
- The breaker is fine but the unit is still dead (that points inside the appliance — switch, board, or wiring).
- You smell gas, hear repeated clicking with no flame, or the breaker trips every time. If you smell gas, shut the valve and step outside first.
- The oven heats but the cooktop doesn't (or vice versa) — that's almost always a control or relay diagnosis best left to a tech.
- Anything involves the 240V connection, control board, or gas ignition. These carry shock, fire, and gas-leak risk.
What it costs
Our median stove/oven repair runs about $295, and won't-turn-on jobs usually land in that range once the failed switch, board, or igniter is replaced. We charge a flat diagnostic fee to come out and pinpoint the fault, and we credit that fee toward the repair when you book the fix with us. You'll get a firm price before any work starts — no surprises.
Frequently asked questions
Why won't my stove turn on even though the breaker is fine? This is the most common version we see. A good breaker means power is reaching the wall, so the fault is usually inside the stove — a failed infinite switch, a bad control board or relay, a blown internal fuse, or a loose 240V connection. It needs a meter to trace, but it's routinely a one-part fix.
My electric stove is completely dead — what does that mean? A fully dead electric range points to a power-delivery problem: a bad outlet or 240V connection, a tripped/failed breaker, or an internal control failure. We start at the outlet and work inward so we're not guessing.
Why won't my oven turn on but the burners still work (or the other way around)? The cooktop and the oven often run on separate switches and control circuits. When only one side is dead, it's usually a failed control board, relay, igniter (gas oven), or a stuck self-clean latch — not a whole-unit problem.
My gas stove and oven both stopped — could the pilot light have gone out? Yes. On older gas ranges a pilot light that goes out can knock out ignition for the burners and oven at once. We relight and, more importantly, find why it went out so it doesn't happen again. If you also smell gas, shut the valve and call from outside.
How much does it cost to fix a stove that won't turn on? Most won't-turn-on repairs fall around our $295 median once the failed part is replaced. We charge a diagnostic fee to identify the fault and credit it toward the repair, and you approve the total before we start.
Can you come out same-day in the Bay Area or on the Peninsula? Usually, yes. We run same-day and next-day stove and oven appointments across the SF Bay Area & Peninsula. Call (888) 993-5699 and we'll get you the soonest slot.
Book your stove repair today
If your stove or oven won't turn on, our gas-safe Bay Area & Peninsula techs will diagnose it fast and fix it right — usually same-day. Call (888) 993-5699 or book online.
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